Pie Therapy

Recipes and ruminations on pie.

Friday, October 20, 2006

Not Loving Lard


My pie hobby has led me to ask many a fellow pie maker about their pies, especially crusts. Once when speaking to my grandmother (Tutu is what I call her), she told me about her standard pies. Then she recounted this pie party that she went to where the hostess' crust was the best she had ever tasted. Tutu asked the hostess her secret, but the hostess wouldn't give it up. Tutu suspected it was lard. She said when shortening came into being, people just used it; lard was on the decline in popularity.

My M-I-L also has fond memories of lard, as do others. So I decided to dig into the lard mystique. I asked my pig farmer at the farmer's market about it. He said he brings lard, but I would have to render it. Hmm boiling pig fat, not something that sounds too appetizing. My husband renders duck fat for confit, and although I love confit, the process is gross and stinks up the house (usually my M-I-L luckily.

So, I discussed this with my mom and she sent me some recipes and articles on lard. She then ended up buying 10lbs of the stuff from a farmer in PA. (She lives in WA state). So, she then ended up bringing some to DC on her latest trip.

I decided to tackle lard. None of my pie books really went into lard. So, I decided to just replace the fat amount with lard. Both my moms and my crust recipes require the same amount of fat. So, it was
  • 1 1/2 c flour
  • 1/2 c lard
  • 1 t salt
  • 5 - 7 T of water
I also decided that because lard was likely more like shortening the amount of water wasn't going to be as critical as it is with butter. Then I dug in. First off, it smelled like pig fat. Cutting it in, mixing it, rolling it - it all smelled meaty to me. While I am not a vegitarian, I was for 7 years, and I still don't cook meat. And as a teenager, when I lived in England which had particularly smelly and gruesome butchers, I refused to go into the shops because of the smell. In all fairness, you could say I am sensitive.

Then we made my mom's apple pie recipe with farmer's market apples. She doesn't measure anything, but it goes something like this. Cut a whole lot of apples, like 6 into slices. Pile them into a pie dish. Sprinkle a cinnamon sugar recipe (my guess 1 cup to 1 T) over the apples as they go in. Thenk sprinkle the whole mound with a streusel topping of butter and sugar (my guess 1/4c and 1 c).

We cooked it at 350 for almost 2 hours. I think the temp could have been raised to 400 and the cooking time to one hour.

The result, it was not my favorite pie. I could still taste pig fat. The rest of the family said I was crazy. But it also wasn't that flaky or better textured. I will try it again as mom left 2 of those lbs with me, and maybe mixed with butter. Although after this experience, I am not really loving lard.

3 Comments:

At 6:43 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Honey, the apple pie topping is 1cup flour, 3/4 cup sugar and a stick of butter.

 
At 3:38 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

My cookbook "Meta Given's Modern Encyclopedia of Cooking" published in 1952 gives instructions for making crust with either lard or shortening. For an 8 inch, instructions say to use 1.5 cups flour, 3/4 t salt, 1/4 cup ice water and (6 T lard or 1/2 cup of shortening). I have only made this recipe with lard, so I can not speak for the benefits of using one over the other; however, it does turn out well when using lard.

 
At 7:17 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

My mother, grandmother and great-grandmother all used lard in their crusts so I grew up doing the same. You can find lard in the grocery store. It is made by Armour and is often called manteca. It does not have to be refrigerated, so you may find it by the hispanic food section as they use it a lot as well. When using lard for crust, there is no magic number to the water. It needs to be ICE cold and you add a bit at a time as you break up the lard with the flour. You use your hands to crumble and mix until you get the right consistency to roll it out. The crust is delicous and people rave about it.

 

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